Saturday, February 12, 2011

Bergara Reunion

Bergara is a town located in the province of Gipuzkoa, in the autonomous community of Basque Country, in the north of Spain.

During the Carlist Wars, it operated as the capital and royal court of the Carlists. It was there where the agreement symbolized in the Vergara Embrace between Rafael Maroto and Baldomero Espartero, Prince of Vergara ended one of the period wars.

Many students have visited us from this beautiful town.



Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Chocolate and wine of Navarra

Elizondo is a town close to the French border, near the Pyrenees mountain range, where we traveled to see another student who visited the Robinsons. Nerea pulled out photo albums from her visit in 2000 and showed me a photo our group when we went to a Sonics basketball game. I definitely had less gray hair.

Elizondo is a place in the Autonomous Region of Navarra ( Spain ), capital of Valle de Baztán located 57.5 kilometers from Pamplona. Like the rest Baztán Township belongs to the speaking area of Navarre. One can see nobility in their palatial homes with monumental buildings ranging from late Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque style.

It is the capital and commercial center of the valley. Located on both sides of the river Bidasoa or Baztán. Settlement is more urban than rural because of the abundance of shops, bars, restaurants, shops, banks, etc., with the services their socio-economic base. While we were siting is a coffe shop a group of protesters walked down the narrow street. They wanted government to invite more businesses to the area near where they lived. They resented having to travel so far to their jobs.

 
We visited a shop, famous for their chocolate, called Malkorra. It has milk chocolate and dark chocolate with almonds or hazelnuts nuts. It came in large slabs, which I only bought a small portion of it (28 euros a kilo). Not cheap,but delicious.


I also noticed the wine served during meals was from the Navarra wine region. They are proud of their vineyards just as the people in the north are proud of the Rioja valley produced wines. In the pictures you will see bottles with the seal of approval from their region.




Another fact of Basque tradition is in the way the homes of the past were constructed. To keep the animals close for protection and to generate heat for their homes, the lower section of the structure would house the animals. See picture below.

Today, many owners have converted this space to living quarters. This home was in the town of Erratzu which is a very traditional Basque area. We saw tractors parked out side several homes with chickens, livestock, and other domestic animals taking refuge. This is definitely a way to save on the heating bill, but I do not think I could put up with the aroma that comes with it.



Monday, January 24, 2011

Arrasarte - Leintz Gatzada


Bill Robinson had a student in his home many years ago named Liher. I remember Liher when he visited the states and was glad to see him in his country. We went to a town called Leintz Gatzada for coffee and conversation (where by they way I say a beautiful espresso machine that made terrific coffee - see picture above.) In the pictures you will also see pictures of 3 arches which are at the entrances to the town. Hundreds of years ago there were gates to the city to protect it from people who wanted to rob and harm them.

Its most important economic activity is salt production, but were also blacksmiths and other trades common in a rural setting. There is a decline of the salt business, but the region contiues improving its way of life, customs and historical heritage, natural and cultural promotion and strengthening of new economic activity. Currently 250 people are living in Gatzaga which is in the heart of Basque Country.

As we were walking to the cafe there was a huge mound of hay in the square with a Basque flag flying from the top of the stack. It is a symbol of their proud heritage. Farmers stack hay every fall, usually near their home. When it drys the animals can come to eat it. In my next blog you will learn more about where the animals are kept.

In the video below, Liher explains the hay stack.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

La Tamborrada in Donosti

Basque Country is known for hosting the very loud La Tamborrada. It's a short but intense festival from midnight to midnight with companies of perfectly uniformed marchers parade through the streets of San Sebastian playing drums and barrels in honor of their patron saint, the Donostia of San Sebastian.

The activity begins on the evening of January 19th at the Plaza de la Constitution and winds through the old city for the next 24 hours (there will be a brief break in the morning around dawn--just enough time to throw back a brandy and some churros). The different corps of marchers represent the many gastronomic societies in San Sebastian, and the competition is fierce.

"As with many Spanish traditions, the origin of La Tamborrada is a bit twisted. It appears as though in 1720 a baker was filling water barrels from a fountain near the Iglesia de San Vicente. While filling the barrels he began to sing, and a group of young girls passing by started banging on the barrels as accompaniment. A crowd started to gather and this impromptu jam session evolved into the spectacle you see today."




I was in the home of Hur's parent's flat when the festivities began. Alfonso (top picture) served a tasty dinner, we had our baker's hats and drum sticks at the table. We entered into the fun and had a great time celebrating Basque culture. The old men stayed up til 1:30am. The younger people went out for the rest of the night.

When we woke up the next morning, we went out for cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant around 10am. The sound of the music and drumming could still be heard.