Chocolate and wine of Navarra

Elizondo is a town close to the French border, near the Pyrenees mountain range, where we traveled to see another student who visited the Robinsons. Nerea pulled out photo albums from her visit in 2000 and showed me a photo our group when we went to a Sonics basketball game. I definitely had less gray hair.

Elizondo is a place in the Autonomous Region of Navarra ( Spain ), capital of Valle de Baztán located 57.5 kilometers from Pamplona. Like the rest Baztán Township belongs to the speaking area of Navarre. One can see nobility in their palatial homes with monumental buildings ranging from late Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque style.

It is the capital and commercial center of the valley. Located on both sides of the river Bidasoa or Baztán. Settlement is more urban than rural because of the abundance of shops, bars, restaurants, shops, banks, etc., with the services their socio-economic base. While we were siting is a coffe shop a group of protesters walked down the narrow street. They wanted government to invite more businesses to the area near where they lived. They resented having to travel so far to their jobs.

 We visited a shop, famous for their chocolate, called Malkorra. It has milk chocolate and dark chocolate with almonds or hazelnuts nuts. It came in large slabs, which I only bought a small portion of it (28 euros a kilo). Not cheap,but delicious.


I also noticed the wine served during meals was from the Navarra wine region. They are proud of their vineyards just as the people in the north are proud of the Rioja valley produced wines. In the pictures you will see bottles with the seal of approval from their region.

Another fact of Basque tradition is in the way the homes of the past were constructed. To keep the animals close for protection and to generate heat for their homes, the lower section of the structure would house the animals. See picture below.

Today, many owners have converted this space to living quarters. This home was in the town of Erratzu which is a very traditional Basque area. We saw tractors parked out side several homes with chickens, livestock, and other domestic animals taking refuge. This is definitely a way to save on the heating bill, but I do not think I could put up with the aroma that comes with it.

Arrasarte - Leintz Gatzada

Bill Robinson had a student in his home many years ago named Liher. I remember Liher when he visited the states and was glad to see him in his country. We went to a town called Leintz Gatzada for coffee and conversation (where by they way I say a beautiful espresso machine that made terrific coffee - see picture above.) In the pictures you will also see pictures of 3 arches which are at the entrances to the town. Hundreds of years ago there were gates to the city to protect it from people who wanted to rob and harm them.

Its most important economic activity is salt production, but were also blacksmiths and other trades common in a rural setting. There is a decline of the salt business, but the region contiues improving its way of life, customs and historical heritage, natural and cultural promotion and strengthening of new economic activity. Currently 250 people are living in Gatzaga which is in the heart of Basque Country.

As we were walking to the cafe there was a huge mound of hay in the square with a Basque flag flying from the top of the stack. It is a symbol of their proud heritage. Farmers stack hay every fall, usually near their home. When it drys the animals can come to eat it. In my next blog you will learn more about where the animals are kept.

In the video below, Liher explains the hay stack.

From 2011 Jan BC - Arrasarte

La Tamborrada in Donosti

Basque Country is known for hosting the very loud La Tamborrada. It's a short but intense festival from midnight to midnight with companies of perfectly uniformed marchers parade through the streets of San Sebastian playing drums and barrels in honor of their patron saint, the Donostia of San Sebastian.

The activity begins on the evening of January 19th at the Plaza de la Constitution and winds through the old city for the next 24 hours (there will be a brief break in the morning around dawn--just enough time to throw back a brandy and some churros). The different corps of marchers represent the many gastronomic societies in San Sebastian, and the competition is fierce.

"As with many Spanish traditions, the origin of La Tamborrada is a bit twisted. It appears as though in 1720 a baker was filling water barrels from a fountain near the Iglesia de San Vicente. While filling the barrels he began to sing, and a group of young girls passing by started banging on the barrels as accompaniment. A crowd started to gather and this impromptu jam session evolved into the spectacle you see today."

I was in the home of Hur's parent's flat when the festivities began. Alfonso (top picture) served a tasty dinner, we had our baker's hats and drum sticks at the table. We entered into the fun and had a great time celebrating Basque culture. The old men stayed up til 1:30am. The younger people went out for the rest of the night.

When we woke up the next morning, we went out for cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant around 10am. The sound of the music and drumming could still be heard.

Visiting students

The recruiting team went to several schools and presented the Summer in the USA (SUSA) program to students in their English classes. Parents make it a priority to send their children to an English speaking country to be immersed in the English language. In our presentations we divide into 4 teams and play a Trivia Game on American teenage culture, spend 15 minutes having discussions with the students about America and what they like to do, then play the SUSA Student trailer. We stress the 4 Promises of SUSA:

1. English Fluency
2. Having Fun
3. Making Friends
4. Becoming Family

SUSA fulfills the promises by having an American family bring a student into their family. While they are in the USA, the Basque student does everything the family does for 3 weeks of their stay. For one week the student spends time at a summer camp with hundreds of other American teenagers. During the stay they learn to speak better English in everyday interactions. No English classes.

During the school visits we see students who have been a part of the program. They are happy to see us and we are happy to see them. Many times we are able to record a video message to their American family.  The day is long, but worth the effort.

Tricio - The La Rioja territory

Tricio is a town in the territory of La Rioja (the name appeared in a charter of 1099) was formerly known as the province of Logroño for the fortified site around which it developed. The 16th-century church Iglesia de San Miguel, seen in the pictures, is in the middle of the town square.

The area was occupied by the Romans and the hills are full of holes made for dwellings. Pieces of pottery, dating back to Roman times, can be found as shallow as six inches below the ground.

La Rioja is known for their wine. Vineyards can be seen off in the horizon in every direction.

We visted Maite and Jason Richards. Maite was a part of the Summer in the USA program about eight years ago. She lived with the Robinson's for a full year, this was before the program was changed to one month in the summer. Jason is from Silverdale. In 2009, they were married in Tricio. The ceremony was help in 16th century church you see in the video below. Maite is employed by a furniture company in Tricio. Jason is restoring their apartment and finishing school through extension course from Liberty University. He wishes to start up an English Academy in the La Rioja region.

Lunch in Donosti

Saturday was a sunny day. Hur and Venessa came down from Orio to show us a couple places that have very tasty tapas or pintxos.  One place really stood out, Meson Txubilla - Japanese-Basque cuisine. Taste buds went crazy. (see pictures in last post.)
A Basque meal means going to several places or bars to taste their pintxos and then the final place is where you have cafe contado or cafe con leche (closest to a latte). No Starbucks here. The Basque culture wants you to sit, relax, talk awhile and enjoy the view.

Arriving in Bilbao

We were able to get a direct 9 hour flight to Paris. The connecting flight to Bilbao would be 3 hours later. I had time to use my debit card to get euros from the ATM and bought a slice of quiche lorraine at the cafe in the terminal.

When we arrived in Bilbao it was dry and sunny. All but one piece of luggage arrived - the one piece lost had our gifts for the various families we will be visiting while we are here. Hopefully, it will be found and delivered to Olarain.

Olarain is housing, primarily for college students, but is available to the public. The universities in Basque Country (BC) are geared for students who commute, so they are not like American college dorms where students live. Olarain has college (uncomfortable) mattresses, a laundry room, internet and a cafeteria for breakfast.

 We rented a car and drove to San Sebastian, which is an hour or so away. We made sure we went to the Movistar Telephonica to get our european disposable phones charged. The phone I had needed a new chip and new minutes. Bill and Sauna each bought new phones. The phones are essential to stay in contact with families and students who want to meet with us during the week. It is also useful to stay in contact with one another as we split up to visit people and schools during the week.

It the pictures below you will see Simone and Christina, who are the parents of Danni, who stayed with Sauna in Portland. We are in a bar called Pepe's off Av de Tolosa. The food was great and satisfying after a long trip.

When we ate the time in BC was 8pm, 5am our time, so we were pretty tired.  For San Sebastian, 8 or 9 pm is the usual dinner hour for most families. Evening time is considered 9PM until early morning. We will have to experience the night life an other day. I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

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January Trip to Basque Country

Get ready everyone. I am on my way to Basque Country again. This time I am traveling with a team of people to visit schools and participate in parent meetings. Our goal is to convince families to enroll ther student in the SUMMER IN THE USA English immersion program. I will be in the San Sebastian area from January 7th to the 23rd.

I will be documenting our journey and give you a perspective never seen before. I hope you follow along. Become a follower. Make comments. Enjoy the trip!